A Barcelona Bar That Shouldn’t Be Missed: bodega el aguelo

Once in a while  you wander the streets of a European city and happen into a bar or restaurant that for years and trips to come will be “your” spot.  Every time you return to that city you seek out that place, sip a glass of wine, chug a pint of beer or munch on your favorite tapas.  Often re-creating that first memorable experience falls short and you may not return, but other times, those times you know you found the right place, each visit is a happy continuation from the next.  My place which I recommend to everyone headed to Barcelona is a unique little bar called Bodega el Aguelo.

Without a sense of where you’re going this corner bar can be difficult to find.  The streets around La Rambla are complicated and narrow, winding this way then that.  On my most recent trip I spent an hour or so wandering the back streets trying to find this place I have visited five times before.  But, with directions in mind it is an easy find.   Head down La Rambla until you reach Carrer de Josep Anselm Clave right before the main street that runs along the water front. Make a left, walking away from the Columbus statue (who is not pointing to the Americas by the way) until you hit Carrer d’Avinyo. Head left once again and keep your eyes open for the bar on a corner on your right at number 37.

With drying pork legs hung from the ceiling waiting to be sliced into delicious prosciutto at a local market, old wooden benches and an upper level in the back it would be hard to miss.   Bright red wagon wheels are mounted to a wall in the rear and somewhat dusty glass chandelier provides just enough light to set an ambiance.  The bar is stocked with a variety of liquors but a nice cold cerveza is what is on the menu when I sit down.   In the back, under the upper level and towards the restroom are some fussball tables that probably get more use from the owners than patrons.  At times the place is quiet but once in awhile you get a small rush of locals or tourists drawn in by a sense of “feeling at home” that is evident from outside.

On the wall you may notice several bottles of something called Pacharan.  This tasty liquor, served over ice is a made in-house specialty and may remind you of a sweet Jager Meister.   Ordering it by the glass will cost yo u about 20 Euro a bottle but if you want to take a bottle home, 10 Euros can buy you a souvenir to look forward to.  Just remember you will have to check it at the airport or mail it before you leave.

The bartenders are friendly and despite the lack of English spoken here, everyone understands “beer”; but I’m sure you can muster “Cerveza”.  Tapas are served from the bar and if your hungry try the Pan con Tomate.  A toasted bread rubbed with garlic and tomato. The food however is not why locals come by.

My first visit was an accidental meeting when I found myself unprepared for a French rail strike and “stranded” in Barcelona trying to figure out what to do next.  I wandered into Avinyo 37, sat down, ordered a beer and planned the remaining 3 weeks of my trip around Europe.  From that time forward I have returned here on each of my visits to Barcelona. On my most recent visit in April 2008  I was lucky enough to introduce my Dad, on his first ever visit to Europe, to this dear Spanish friend of mine, the Bodega el Aguelo and I hope you give it a try too.

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